Detailed instructions are given in the Eventide Corset Instruction Book however; I’d like to expand them a little with this Re-sizing Patterns to Fit post.
Although I am obviously doing this for the Eventide Corset Pattern, the basic principles apply when adjusting all Patterns to Fit your figure. I will admit that this technique will only get you so far, and would like to stress making a toile and having a Fitting is always a good idea. A fitting will iron out all of the teeny tiny details and make any garment look oodles better however; the first step is to alter your Pattern to get a better approximation of your body than we currently have.
Firstly, take accurate measurements of your Bust, Waist and Hips and make a note of them. Reduce the measurements according to the instructions (roughly 10cm, but this is explained in greater detail in the Instruction Book), and make a note of this also.
With the reduced set of measurements, decide which Size is closest to yours. For example, the reduced measurements I am going to be working with are Bust 114cm, Waist 89cm and Hips 122cm which are closest to a Medium Size of the Eventide Corset Pattern.
Once decided, cut or trace off the Size you wish to make (tracing off ensures you can re-use the Pattern, or have it to refer to if you make any mistakes).
Now the Maths bit… and yes, I heard you groan!
You will need to decide how much you need to add or take away from the Pattern to make it fit you, and in which areas. To do this you will need to subtract the Corset Pattern measurements from yours, then divide them in half. For example… my Bust measurement is 114cm which is 7cm larger than the Pattern Divided in half this is 3.5cm, which is what I need to add in to the Pattern to make it fit.
Repeat for the Waist and Hip measurements. I now know at this point that I need to add in 3.5cm to the Bust, 3cm to the Waist and 5cm to the Hips. You may be asking why we are further complicating things by dividing everything in half… this is because we will be working from the Pattern which is only half of you!
After all this Maths, you will need to start altering the Pattern. Again, there are complete instructions in the Eventide Corset Book however, this should explain things further.
Firstly, I lay all of the Pattern Pieces out in a line, with the Waist Line running parallel. I find this helps me visualize a little better what I am doing. Then, I make a note of where I would like to do the adjustments:Normally, I would steer clear of adjusting the Front and Side Front Panels however, as I am making this Corset for a curvier Woman, I’d like to add in a little more room. They are also the narrowest Panels and I’d like to even this out a little for this Corset. As you can see I have made note to add in the required amount to the Bust, Waist and Hips.
Make these adjustments as follows… …
I have zoned the adjustments where possible, in this instance both the Front and Side Front Panels are having 1cm added in to them. For this adjustment I can simply cut up the “Enlarge or Reduce” line, move the pieces 1cm away from each other then Sellotape on to some Pattern Paper in this position.
For the Side, Side Back and Back Panels, I only need to adjust a portion so I will cut up the same line BUT leave a little bit un-cut at the end (Yellow Circles), as a pivot point. I can then move each side of each Panel away from each other as before but leave the Bust or Hips unaffected. Again, I shall Sellotape this adjustment on to a new piece of Pattern Paper.
As you may have noticed, I needed to adjust the Waist +3.5cm and I have only managed 3cm so far. This is not a real issue as- where the Green Crosses are- a slight adjustment has been made and as you can see each side has been moved a fraction because of this so I am happy that this is enough.
Obviously, when reducing the Corset the same techniques can be used but in reverse.
Adjustments to Corset Patterns are a funny business. Unlike when adjusting standard Patterns, the end product will alter the shape of you. If you find that you cannot manage to quite make an adjustment perfect do not stress yourself!! Smaller adjustments can be managed in the Fitting stage, simply make a note and have a cuppa.
Don’t forget that you can view the full lists of posts for the Eventide Sew-A-Long here, grab your very own swanky copy of the Eventide Pattern here, or grab some inspiration for your Corsetry with Corset Month on Pinterest.
Check back with post 4, wher I shall be talking about handling fabric like Lace and Sequined Fabrics and cutting out your Corset! Eek!!