Notions: Concealed Zips

I am working on my latest Zine project- all about Zips- and thought I’d post a couple of hints about how to place a Concealed Zip in to your garment. Whilst not overly difficult, they can be enormously awkward and frustrating!! Once you have the hang of them however; they can be a handy way to create a slightly more professional looking garment, and a great thing for Cushions and Pockets.

If sewing a Dress, you will need to sew the top and bottom of the seam the Concealed Zip is going to be inserted in to, this should be illustrated in your Pattern. If your intention is to sew the Zipper in to a skirt, measure the Concealed Zip and mark the length and then sew up the side or back seam to that point.

Iron the seam ‘out’ as illustrated.

Lay the fabric Right Side down then fold the right hand side under the left as illustrated, leaving the seam poking out. Pin the Concealed Zip, right side down, and lining the top of the Zip up with the top of the seam. Pin at a 45 degree angle if possible.

Attach the Zipper Foot to the Sewing Machine, and place the top of the Zip in to the Machine. Reverse stitch a couple of stitches to anchor then ‘roll’ the Concealed Zip away from the Zipper Foot as illustrated and sew down the length of the Zip ‘under’ the Zipper Teeth as illustrated.

When stitched completely, your seam should be invisible from the back because your stitches are underneath the teeth of the Zipper.

Fold the fabric back for the other side and pin the Zipper, then stitch.

The only stitches which are visible are at the start of the Zip, where there are no teeth.

Give the fabric a good iron, and admire your handy work!

Watch out for my upcoming Zine, all about Zips which will have illustrations on how to insert Concealed Zips, Plain Zips, a Zipped Fly and a couple of projects to use the techniques in such as Patch Pockets and Cushions.

Happy stitching!